A hairpin desk makes for a great addition to any remote employee’s workspace. In this step-by-step guide we show you how to make a hairpin leg desk in the comfort of your home. Scroll through and kickstart your project now.
These are the materials you’ll need on hand so you can build a desk at home.
Four (4) 28” hairpin legs3/4″ project panel 20” wide by 8’ long, cut into two 4’ lengths1×8 lumber, cut into one 4’ length and four 8” lengths1×3 lumber, cut into two 3’ lengths (optional, for cord concealer)1” or 1-1/4” wood screws1-1/4” pocket screwsKreg jig, right-angle clampWood glue, clamps, wood filler, fine (220-grit) sandpaperPocket hole plugsFinish of your choice (e.g., paint, stain, polycrylic, etc.)
Begin by examining your project panels to determine the best side for the top of your wood desk hairpin legs. Place this piece, top side down, on your work surface.
Run wood glue all around the face-up side of project panel.
Place the other project panel, which will be the bottom of your desk, on top of the wood glue. Line up all sides and corners precisely.
Clamp the two project panels together at all four corners, taking care to keep edges and corners aligned.
Grab your wood screws.
Drill about 10 screws into the clamped project panels to hold them together. The bottom of your hairpin desk is facing upward at this point, so the screws are only on the bottom of your desk.
Flip your desktop over so the top of the desk is face up. Grab some wood filler.
Note: You can keep the clamps on at this point, if your wood glue hasn’t had time to set completely.
Apply wood filler anywhere there’s a crack, hole, or knot on the top of your desktop. Let wood filler dry.
Grab your four pieces of 1×8 boards.
Use your Kreg jig to put two pocket holes into the top and bottom end of each of your four 1×8 boards.
Your boards should look something like this.
Set them aside for a minute.
To build a cord concealer under your desk, take two 1×3 boards, cut to 3’ in length.
Drill about five pocket holes along a long side of each 1×3 strip.
Lay one 1×3 strip down, pocket holes facing down, with the pocket holes exiting out the right side.
Grab your second 1×3 strip and place it perpendicular on the left hand side of your first 1×3 strip, with the pocket holes of the second strip facing inward and exiting down into the first 1×3 strip.
Glue along the connecting edge of your second 1×3 strip, then realign and clamp one side with your right-angle clamp.
Screw 1-1/4” pocket screws into the five pocket holes of this 1×3 strip.
You should now have a connected L-shaped corner, comprised of the two 1×3 strips.
Flip your desktop back over, so the bottom side is facing up. If your wood filler is dry, you can sand it first. If it’s not all the way dry, you can just flip it and rest it on the clamps so the wood filler can keep drying.
Place the L-shaped corner on the back side of the bottom face, with the opening of the corner facing the back of your desktop.
Run a bead of glue along the connecting edge of your L-shaped corner.
Replace the L on your desktop, centered between the two sides and aligned with the back edge of your desk.
Screw into place.
Sand everything down lightly before moving onto the shelf installation. Make sure edges align; if they’re off a little, sand them until they are flush with each other.
Flip your desktop back over, top side facing up. Measure and mark 12” in from the sides, along the back edge of the desktop.
Draw a perpendicular line, about 7” long, at both 12” marks.
The top side of your desktop, along the back edge, will look something like this.
Glue, then install the two inner 1×8 boards along the pencil lines by screwing 1-1/4” pocket screws into the pocket holes.
Keep the back edge of your 1×8 boards flush with the back edge of your desktop.
Install the two outer 1×8 boards at the edges of your desktop, with the pocket holes facing outward.
Note: This could go against any woodworking strategies you’ve probably used, but these smaller cubby areas aren’t particularly conducive to pocket holes, so it’s better and easier to have the outer ends screwed in from the outside.
With all four 1×8 boards attached, it’s time to attach the top shelf.
Run beads of glue along the tops of all four 1×8 boards, then place your 4’ length of 1×8 lumber on top.
Align the sides.
Drill the outer pocket holes first.
Your desk shelf is completely attached.
Lightly sand everything.
Place a drop of wood glue on the ends of your pocket hole plugs, then insert them into the pocket holes.
Do this for all 16 of your pocket holes (four on each 1×8 board).
Sand everything again.
Wipe away all sanding dust with a clean cloth.
With everything dry and sanded, your desktop is ready for finishing. You can choose any type of finish you want.
After being carefully taped off, the space was painted with a single coat.
Peel the blue tape off immediately after painting.
Let the paint dry.
You now need a space to run a charging cord (or any type of cord) up to your desktop, utilizing your built-in cord concealer.
Drill a hole big enough for the end of your cord up through the desktop.
Sand the hole. Wipe away any excess sanding dust.
With your paint dry, it’s time to put the finishing coat(s) on your desk.top.
Brush this on everywhere over your desktop, including the insides of each cubby and the bottom side of the shelf board.
Pro tip: Water-based polycrylic is a great choice because it goes on easily, it doesn’t yellow, and it cleans up fast.
While the polycrylic dries, you can install your hairpin legs.
Simply line up the leg attachments with the corners of your desk, and screw them in.
As you can see, the cord-free attachment is a real-life solution to a real-life challenge: making cords disappear to maximize great design.
The additional shelf adds a functional horizontal surface without sacrificing the desk’s footprint. (You can check out this tutorial for a similar hairpin leg desk with no shelf.) Feel free to modify the measurements and dimensions as best suits your space.
While hairpin leg computer desks may look flimsy or unsupported, this isn’t the case. These hairpin leg desks are sturdy and strong. They can hold the same weight as a desk of similar size.
A hairpin desk is a piece of office furniture that comprises of a wooden desktop and metal hairpin legs. For the most part, they are reclaimed wood desk with hairpin legs that have a rustic vibe to them and are perfect for any space.
This varies depending on the size of the hairpin legs themselves. If, for instance, you have a black hairpin leg desk with ¾” legs, it will hold up to 130 pounds; however, if you build a desk with ½” rod legs, it will only hold about 50 pounds.
As outlined in this post, you can build a standing desk with hairpin legs quite easily. It just takes some wood, paint, wood finishing and mechanic equipement. Building a gaming desk or working desk has never been easier!
If you’re wondering how to build a simple desk, it’s quite, well, simple: Just gather the materials and follow the step-by-step instructions outlined in this blog post.
For those that feel they don’t have time to find out how to build a computer desk from scratch or you find yourself not very savvy, you can always grab a mainstays hairpin desk from walmart, a hairpin desk at target, or find an ikea build-a-desk instead.
If you want to build a corner desk or build a standing desk with drawers; it’s as easy as can be. Once you make your shelves, you’d just cut the right sizes for drawers, drill into them, screw into place and enjoy easy slide-in-drawers.
We hope you enjoy building your modern desk with a shelf and hairpin legs. You’re guaranteed to love the clean-lined contemporary touch it adds to your workspace.
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